The Japanese morning set is one of the best things about Japanese cafés. This cheap deal is like the Japanese version of an EggMcmuffin, only a lot better. Many cafés that open in the morning offer their own twist on the classic, generally hovering between ¥500 and ¥1,000 for a short (usually around two hours) window. From the classic free slice of toast with your coffee, to a salad with vegetable juice or other offerings such as eggs and ham, the “morning service” is a great way to get a feel for each café.
The best morning sets are to be found if you search on maps for “kissaten morning set,” as tiny independent cafés serve the most inventive options. We’ve included a couple of our favorite independent shops, as well as some chain stores that are easily accessible wherever you are, so you needn’t miss out on the morning set even if you’re far away from an independent establishment.
What are Japanese Morning Sets?
It’s believed that the Japanese breakfast tradition has its roots in the 1950s in Ichinomiya, Aichi Prefecture, when workers were offered peanuts or a free boiled egg with their coffee in the morning. This idea of adding food to the drink (it was usually the other way around) spread to the nearby city of Nagoya, then gradually across the country. Nowadays, many Japanese restaurants and cafés have their own special morning set.
The morning set is so-called because it’s only available to early risers. It tends to run from when the café opens until 11 a.m., sometimes earlier, sometimes later.
Photo by Kim Kahan
Caferia: Best for Taking it Easy
A classic kissaten, Caferia is located opposite Hatanodai Station. Head up the twisting stairs to the second floor, and you’ll come out into a space that’s the embodiment of the Japanese kissaten. As well as the dark wooden furniture and front coffee counter with mugs displayed at the back, there’s also a bookcase of manga and framed pictures on the wall. It will make you double-take: have I stepped back in time?
Caferia used to allow smoking, but you’d hardly know, unlike other shops where the fusty smell lingers. It’s only the miscoloring of the walls that gives it away.
The morning set at Caferia is a huge wad of thick, buttered toast, and a great little salad topped with a boiled egg for only ¥550. The detail here is paramount: you’ll get a quaint silver fork to enjoy the salad with, the coffee comes in a Showa-era glass and the napkin is folded just so.
Poppins Coffee and Tea, Koenji: Best for At-home Vibes
Stepping into Poppins Coffee and Tea is like being in the front room of the adorable owners, who happen to be a couple. Looking at the teacups lining the back walls, the long, large counter and even the fish in the bowl makes you feel at home right away. The owners are busy working away behind the counter, preparing everything for the day, swiftly making cups of coffee the classic kissaten way, carefully dripping each strain through the paper.
The morning set at Poppins is a particular favorite for weekends. Go in as a couple or solo, so you can take it really easy. While the space is modest, Poppins is very popular. Eat your salad and toast while washing the food down with some vegetable juice. Bottoms up, it’s good for you. Smoking is allowed in Poppins, so beware of that before you go.
Pronto: Cheap and Cheerful
Pronto is a chain store best known for its affordable pasta options, yet its morning set is criminally underrated. The morning set menu is a great option for early risers, and even those who aren’t so early. The toast set comes with thick shokupan (milk bread) toast, a boiled egg and a salad with pickled cabbage and shiso dressing. The egg can even be swapped out for yogurt and blueberry jam, if you fancy something lighter. Aside from the basic toast set, the chain offers a few other options, like Instagrammable toast with fried egg and ham or a sweet bun with classic an-jam (sweet red bean paste).
What sets Pronto out from the rest is its plentiful drink options, which include the obvious tea and coffee, but also green rooibos tea — a rarity for many Japanese cafés. The basic toast set is only ¥495 (tax included). It’s a real bargain.
Photo by Kim Kahan
Cafe Miyama, Shibuya: Best for People-watching
Cafe Miyama is a subsidiary of the popular Coffee Renoir chain. It isn’t as common as Renoir, but the morning set is good, especially when it comes with a biew. The Shibuya store, which overlooks Center-Gai, is certainly worth visiting. Its large bay window comes straight out of the 1980s. It is the ideal place for sitting down and grabbing a sandwich and coffee while peeping out at the people below.
The morning set comes with a few options. We went for the eggy sandwich and coffee, which arrived in a Showa-inspired mug.
Bonus for Shibuya: Ningen Kankei Cafe de Copain
Ningen Kankei Cafe de Copain is a classic café and bar that was established in 1979. A little-kept secret among Tokyoites, this shop is the best for cheap eats and cheaper drinks. It’s pretty busy at any time of the day.
At night, a glass of wine costs just ¥440. In the morning, the ¥540 set (¥640 on weekends) comes with coffee or tea and a large toasted sandwich. The sandwich is approximately 10 layers and sliced. The only issue is that it takes so long to come — we’re talking upwards of one hour. So, it’s imperative to have a little snack or even a banana before you go.
Coffee Kan: Best for Working While You Eat
In Japan, and especially in small, independent kissa, staying at your table for hours and nursing one cup of coffee is generally frowned upon. So, for the morning worker who likes to multitask and eat breakfast while working, chain shops are your best bet. Step forward Coffee Kan, with its unlimited Wi-Fi and plentiful tables with plugs.
The coffee at Coffee Kan is decent, made the siphon way. After you order, someone will come to your table with the drip siphon and pour it in front of you, which is always a treat. The morning set is egg and half-toast or salad at its most basic, or fried eggs and ham. There are even pancakes if you want something fancier.
