Hachijojima, or Hachijo Island, is a serene counterpart to the food culture of Tokyo’s bustling city streets. On this volcanic island — part of the Izu archipelago, which is part of Tokyo Prefecture — culinary traditions thrive in harmony with nature. Just a one-hour flight from Haneda Airport, Hachijojima offers an unforgettable journey through flavors deeply rooted in history, culture and sustainability.
On a recent gastronomy trip alongside food journalist Mayumi Satoi and culinary expert Ryuta Kijima, we delved into Hachijojima’s culinary scene, discovering not just the dishes but also the inspiring stories of the people behind them.
Day 1: A Taste of the Ocean’s Bounty
Kaminato Fishing Port
Our journey began at Kaminato Fishing Port, the lifeblood of Hachijojima’s vibrant fishing culture. Here, the nutrient-rich Kuroshio Current brings a bounty of migratory fish, from tobiuo (flying fish) and mahi-mahi to tuna and bonito. After reeling in the catch, the fishermen efficiently pack the fish into containers, ready to be shipped to the wholesale fish market. Watching the local fishermen prepare for the day’s work revealed a world of tradition, where sustainable techniques like single-line fishing are still the norm.
“We fish early, starting at 5 a.m., and it’s tough work, but it’s rewarding to know we’re continuing a tradition that supports our community,” explained fisherman Shinichi Ozaki. He noted that younger generations from the city are immigrating to the island to become fishermen, drawn by the island’s charm and a chance to preserve this vital craft — a reassuring glimpse into the future of Hachijojima’s fishing community.
Asoko Sushi
For lunch, we visited Asoko Sushi, a delightful eatery famed for its shimazushi, a traditional regional dish from the Izu Islands, as well as shoyu-tsuke shimazushi, a variant marinated in soy sauce. While marinating fish in soy sauce isn’t new, the island’s remote location gave rise to its distinct style, which differs from typical sushi; it includes using karashi (mustard) instead of wasabi for a bold, refreshing twist. The owner carefully adjusts the marinating time for each fish cut, taking into account its fat content to ensure the flavors are perfectly balanced and the texture remains ideal.
Every piece of sushi here is prepared from fish that are caught in the waters off Hachijojima. The owner’s dedication is evident not just in the beautifully crafted dishes but also in the decor — a celebration of Hachijo’s oceanic treasures, with fish prints and photos lining the walls. “The ocean gives us everything,” he told TW, proudly gesturing toward a framed print of a 140-centimeter-long yellow amberjack he once reeled in.
Osada Shouten Kusaya Shop
Kusaya, the island’s iconic fermented fish whose name derives from the Japanese word kusai, meaning “smelly,” is a bold and unique culinary experience. At Osada Shouten, owner Takahiro Osada walked us through the intricate process that makes Hachijo’s kusaya stand out.
The fish, which are freshly caught and unloaded early in the morning, must be processed with alacrity and care in order to ensure their quality. After the entrails are removed and each fish is thoroughly rinsed, they’re fermented in a special brine, known as kusaya-eki, which has been cultivated with special bacteria strains and perfected over decades. This meticulous preparation is followed by soaking the fish in water to reduce its saltiness and mellow its flavor. Finally, the kusaya are dried in a room with a special cold air dryer, and each is flipped by hand to ensure the fish is dried thoroughly.
Kusaya, with its famously strong smell, holds a cherished place in Hachijo’s food culture. Osada, driven by a passion for keeping this tradition alive, actively engages with local schools, introducing children to the art of making kusaya. “I want the younger generation to embrace this heritage, not just for its taste but for the story it tells about our island,” he said.
Hachijo Kouhatsu Sake Brewery
No journey through Hachijo’s culinary world would be complete without tasting its shimazake, or island spirits. At Hachijo Kouhatsu, one of the island’s shochu (distilled spirit) breweries, we learned how local sweet potatoes and barley are used instead of rice, which is difficult to cultivate on the island. These ingredients are then combined with mineral-rich volcanic water, resulting in a unique shochu that can only be made on Hachijojima. While learning about the brewing process, we savored the special flavor born from the island’s nature.
The volcanic soil and mineral-rich water contribute to its unique flavor profile, while the island’s humid climate aids in the fermentation process. The brewery’s Nasakejima shochu has become a beloved local treasure and even serves as a base for Tokyo Gin, sold in the city’s upscale Toranomon Hills. “Every bottle carries the essence of Hachijojima,” Zenyu Komiyama, the second-generation owner.”
Beyond producing shochu, the brewery aims to make it relevant for the younger generation. “My goal is for shimazake to be enjoyed in modern ways by the younger generation who will continue to evolve it,” Komiyama shared.
A Feast to Remember: Ryozanpaku Izakaya
Our dinner was at Ryozanpaku, a family-run izakaya bar that encapsulates the essence of Hachijo’s food culture. From the tender and smoky umikaze shiitake mushrooms and the interesting texture of budo, a seasoned jelly made from fish meat and Japanese red alga seaweed, to the crispy tempura made from the island’s representative herb, ashitaba, each dish pays homage to the island’s bountiful produce.
The second-generation owner, Ikko Yamada, shared his philosophy of using food to bring happiness to the community — a mission evident in every plate. As we dined on a variety of carefully crafted local dishes, enjoying the sense of togetherness in this lively eatery, it was easy to see why food is the heart of Hachijojima.
“My father started this izakaya to bring people together, and I’m continuing that mission,” said Yamada. “When locals and visitors sit down here, I want them to savor the best of Hachijo in every bite.”
Day 2: Island Innovations and Comforts
Enkel to Hare Cheese Farm and Ranch
Hachijojima’s surprises extend beyond seafood: The island is also famous for its dairy products, home to hardy Jersey cattle that thrive in its warm and humid climate. This climate, combined with Hachijoijma’s rich volcanic soil and abundant water resources, provides an ideal setting for growing pasture grass; Hachijo cows graze on an abundance of local vegetation, including magusa, angelica tree and Japanese kaya.
Hachijojima Jersey milk is known for being high in fat and having a rich, natural and luscious taste. It’s unsurprising, then, that the Tokyo Islands’ sole cheesemaker established himself here: At Enkel to Hare, lead artisan Takayuki Uotani has carved a niche with his award-winning mozzarella and ricotta. His ranch, nestled amidst the island’s lush landscape, reflects a commitment to sustainability and innovation.
“We came to Hachijojima 13 years ago on vacation, and we immediately fell in love with the island’s nature and saw an opportunity to bring something new,” said Moe, Uotani’s wife.
In the future, Uotani plans to continue dairy farming and beef production using abandoned farmland. “I would like to eventually produce a brand of beef from Hachijojima,” he says. “My dream is for Hachijo cows to be as famous as Kobe beef.”
Participating in the cheesemaking process offered a hands-on glimpse into Uotani’s craft, as we attempted to craft our own mozzarella cheese and stretch it to give it its unique texture.
Jersey Cafe
A sweet treat awaits at Jersey Cafe, where the island’s famed Jersey milk takes center stage. From velvety soft-serve ice cream to luscious puddings, each bite showcases the rich flavor of Hachijo’s dairy, produced nearby, in the pastures of Hachijojima Dairy Industry Inc.’s tranquil Yuyu Farm. We opted for a special blend of Jersey milk and ashitaba herb, which created a perfectly balanced combination of sweet and subtly bitter notes.
Directly managed by Hachijo Dairy Industry Inc., the cafe features a chic wooden interior designed by a local. Nestled next to the town’s supermarket, it has become a popular spot for both locals and visitors, exuding warmth and hospitality. We couldn’t help but smile as we watched local kids tugging their parents in for a cone after their grocery run.
Rediscovering Tokyo’s Culinary Roots
Hachijojima offers a culinary journey that feels both timeless and refreshing, where history and tradition, timeless flavors and fresh surprises coexist. From the ocean’s depths to the fertile pastures, every bite connects you to a story of Hachijojima’s abundant nature. For those seeking a getaway that tantalizes the taste buds while enriching the soul, Hachijojima is a destination not to be missed.
For more information on Tokyo gastronomy tourism — and the natural and culinary wonders of Hachijojima — visit the Tokyo Metropolitan Government’s official website.
