Issey Miyake, a visionary who was known for his technical innovation and avant-garde utilitarianism, remains one of Japan’s most revered designers. His decorated legacy as a force in global haute couture consists of innovative textiles, sculptural designs and pioneering efforts in sustainability. Moreover, Miyake’s ready-to-wear collections — distinguished by their singular and whimsical minimalism — possess a lasting and universal appeal, capturing the hearts of fashion lovers everywhere.
In particular, Miyake’s Pleats Please line, first introduced in 1993, is just as coveted today as it was 30 years ago. Endlessly adaptable and ideal for capsule wardrobes, Pleats Please pieces feature narrow, wrinkle-resistant accordion pleats that expand and retract with the wearer’s movement. In 2013, the brand established Homme Plissé, a hugely successful menswear sub-label that employs garment pleating. Discreet, chic and effortless, these sartorial marvels continue to top the wishlists of visitors in Japan, where selections are wider and prices lower.
Below are a few places to hunt for both new and vintage pleats in Tokyo. Keep in mind that you are not guaranteed to find the exact piece you are looking for, as shops’ stocks shift constantly. It is always best to approach your search from a place of curiosity and serendipity.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake / Daikanyama, Courtesy of Masaya Yoshimura, Issey Miyake Inc.
Issey Miyake Tokyo Stores
If you want to purchase newly released pieces and do not have the time to browse second-hand stores, it is best to head to one of the many Issey Miyake branches in Tokyo. Among the city’s flagship stores, the Ginza location is the largest, carrying many sub-labels in one space.
For Homme Plissé, we recommend visiting the Daikanyama location over the Aoyama location, for fewer crowds and a better selection. Aoyama, however, is the only area in Tokyo to house multiple Issey Miyake sub-label stores in close proximity: Reality Lab, me Issey Miyake, Pleats Please and Homme Plissé. The main Aoyama store is certainly worth checking out, conveniently located right next to Omote-Sando station.
As the flagship stores can often see long lines and require reservations for specific time slots, you may also want to visit the Issey Miyake branches and sub-label shops within department stores and malls, such as Homme Plissé Shibuya Parco, Issey Miyake Shinjuku Isetan, or Issey Miyake Matsuya Ginza.
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Second-hand and Vintage Chains in Tokyo
It is no secret that Japan is a thrifter’s paradise, with loads of high-quality second-hand pieces, archival gems and vintage designer accessories. While you can certainly find great deals for Western designer watches and leatherwear, those in the know also focus on scoring domestic designer apparel by brands like Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons and of course, Issey Miyake.
Second-hand chains where you will likely find Issey Miyake clothing pieces in great condition are Ragtag, 2nd Street and Kindal. In particular, the Harajuku Ragtag and Kindal are great fun to browse, with sleek displays and racks of treasures. Some other less mentioned chains include Rinkan, Bazzstore and Treasure Factory (TreFac).
Although trendy thrifting areas like Shimokitazawa, Koenji, Harajuku and Nakameguro will have a more curated selection of designer apparel, branches in less populated or suburban areas may surprise you with their stock — use Google Maps search and head into as many branches as you can to maximize your luck. Osaka and Kyoto stores also tend to be less combed through, if you are heading to Kansai on your trip.
courtesy of archive store
Vintage Designer Boutiques in Tokyo
Unlike the aforementioned chains, which offer a wider range of designer and non-designer items, the shops introduced in this section focus on rare and archive pieces. Of course, we cannot guarantee that these spots will feature Issey Miyake clothing, as stock rotates frequently, but we can guarantee that they will carry fascinating pieces on any given day — as evidenced by their celebrity clientele.
Archive Store
With a loyal following of fashion enthusiasts worldwide, Archive Store is tucked away behind Shibuya’s Miyashita Park. The boutique is akin to a chic gallery, boasting a vault of stunning pieces like Margiela’s 1999 “Duvet Coat” and 2006 “Bottle Cap Leather Vest.” Tatsuyuki Suzuki, the store’s manager and mastermind, aims to preserve fashion history and frequently holds temporary exhibitions of specific designer’s work.
PAT Market
PAT Market is located in the heart of Ura-Hara — “Backstreet Harajuku” — known as the birthplace of Japanese streetwear. Here, you will find a highly curated, eclectic selection of vintage apparel and accessories by designers like Kiko Kostadinov, Juun.J, Phenomenon, Junya Watanabe and Issey Miyake.
Voss
Only a 5 minute walk away from PAT Market is Voss, a boutique that holds an incredible assortment of archival Japanese designer items. Although the shop’s prices are quite steep, the pieces here are one-of-a-kind. Voss is a must-visit if you are a fan of Issey Miyake beyond his most popular minimalistic pleats, as the pieces featured span collections from the 80s, 90s, and early 2000s. You can also spot archival works by Junya Watanabe, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons, Vivienne Westwood and more.
