“Over the past 15 years, residents have worked to transform Yanaka into a charming, retro-inspired town. They are dedicated to preserving its classic vibe while keeping chain stores and high-rises at bay,” explains Shino Hioki, a tour guide with Ultimate Food Tours, as we stand outside Nippori Station. Hioki is passionate about the area’s culinary scene and loves to share not only the best bites but also the rich history that gives Yanaka its distinct character. Ultimate Food Tours has uncovered some of the neighborhood’s best-hidden gems, making a day trip to Yanaka an ideal way to spend your afternoon.
Where to Eat in Yanaka
Senbei Yanaka
“It’s believed that senbei tastes better in the winter because the dry air keeps it crunchy.” Hioki leads me to the entrance of Senbei Yanaka, a fourth-generation, family-run senbei (rice cracker) shop founded in 1914. The most popular flavor at Senbei Yanaka is the soy sauce “katamaru,” named by the owner’s grandfather. The name means “hard and round,” reflecting the cracker’s shape and texture. The senbei are incredibly crunchy, thanks to the use of high-quality Akita Komachi rice.
The family makes 1,000 senbei a day, and customers can watch the crackers being toasted in the front of the store. However, it’s recommended to visit soon — the 50-year-old machine they use has no one left who knows how to repair it. To prevent inevitable technical failures, the son says he performs meticulous maintenance to keep it running as long as possible. The walls are adorned with awards, including one where the owner’s grandfather won first place in a 1984 okashi (snack food) competition.
Chaya Matsuo
There’s little better than a warm piece of mochi rice cake dusted with the rich, nutty flavors of kinako (soybean powder). At Chaya Matsuo, hungry visitors can choose from classic options like miso and red bean, along with more contemporary flavors like okonomiyaki, a type of savory pancake, or mentaiko (pollock roe) cheese. Their concept blends tradition and innovation, offering a “modern teahouse” experience with matcha lattes and kakigori shaved ice alongside its popular mochi skewers. Chaya Matsuo provides both indoor seating and takeout options with paper plates, allowing guests to enjoy their mochi in comfort or step outside to savor it while people-watching.
Kitsune Sushi
“While chopsticks are the common way to eat sushi today, it was traditionally enjoyed by hand during the Edo period,” Hioki explains as we enter Kitsune Sushi, a hidden gem tucked just around the corner from the lively Yanaka Ginza shopping street. As the glistening, plump slices of fish are served on a geta (wooden board), it’s hard not to gobble them up immediately. The scallop is buttery soft, and the tuna is laced with melt-in-your-mouth fatty goodness. The rice at Kitsune Sushi is exceptional, with a perfect texture that complements the fresh fish.
At the end of the meal, the sushi chef offers a final piece of isaki (grunt fish), flame-grilled to perfection, with smoky flavors enhancing its delicate white flesh. Kitsune Sushi offers a broad menu, along with daily specials, making it an ideal choice for both sushi newcomers and seasoned aficionados.
Where to Drink in Yanaka
If all the snacks have left you thirsty, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to indulge in liquid delights. Many of the tachinomi (standing bars) and historic watering holes open in the afternoon, offering a perfect respite and a chance to recharge in the middle of the day.
Buzzed Lamb Brewing
Opened in 2024, Buzzed Lamb Brewing occupies the site of a renovated sake brewery, blending tradition with innovation. The storefront features weathered wooden beams that contrast beautifully with sleek glass windows, offering a glimpse of the craft beers brewed on-site. The name of the brewery reflects both the owners’ Aries zodiac sign and the playful nod to the buzz from enjoying a cold beer. Flavors range from Magic Pumpkin, a spiced ale brewed with actual squash, to a classic juicy hazy IPA. The second floor features traditional shoji screen sliding doors and paper lanterns, offering a perfect blend of old and new as you enjoy your craft beer.
Echigoya Honten
If you’re looking for an authentic place to mingle with locals, make a stop at Echigoya Honten, a beloved establishment since 1904. With both indoor and outdoor seating, it offers a relaxed setting where you can enjoy a drink and soak in the lively atmosphere. Plastic crates stacked into tables create a casual space for drinks, perfect for people-watching. Echigoya sources specialty sake from across Japan and offers the rare Ebisu amber beer on tap.
You’re even welcome to bring in outside food, so grab a snack while exploring the neighborhood. A local legend says that the woman across the street fell in love with Echigoya’s owner, leading to a marriage that reflects the district’s deep-rooted charm and sense of community.
Beyond the Food: Exploring Yanaka
“Honestly, Yanaka’s atmosphere is its biggest selling point — it’s so different from Tokyo’s more touristy areas,” says Hioki as we stroll down the cobblestone streets. She reflects on the deep sense of community that shapes Yanaka’s business culture. Many of the shops have been family-run for generations, and the owners not only remember their regulars but also enjoy sharing the stories behind their craft with curious visitors.
What To Buy: Shopping & Strolling
Hiiragi: Amulets, Blessings and Spirituality
The minimalist décor of Hiiragi’s bracelets amplifies the beauty of the spiritual jewelry they offer. Customers can linger among the captivating selection of prayer beads, charms and amulet bracelets, all created with natural material such as jade and lapis lazuli. Each bead is unique — no two bracelets will ever be the same. Hiiragi’s offerings also extend to incense, candles, pottery, woodwork, paper accessories and antiques. The concept is a harmony of spirituality, beauty and tradition. A stop at Hiiragi is a must for anyone seeking a gift for a friend or to indulge in gorgeous craftsmanship for themselves.
Traditional Japanese Clothing
The entrance to Yanaka Ginza features a few street stalls offering kimono, yukata (a light cotton variation) and haori (a jacket worn over a kimono) at a fraction of the cost you’d find in Asakusa or Shibuya. Take your time exploring the 500-yen rack, filled with vibrant colors, and imagine who might have once worn these timeless pieces. The array of fabrics, bursting with a rainbow of textures and hues, is simply too tempting to resist. It’s the perfect opportunity to hone your thrifting skills while embracing the rich cultural heritage of the Yanaka neighborhood.
Takanashi Shoten
Takanashi Shoten’s general store is a hidden gem. On the surface, it offers classic necessities like cleaning supplies and children’s toys, but a closer look reveals a delightful selection of fun and quirky souvenirs. Their maekake, traditional Japanese aprons, come in a variety of designs, from Doraemon to stylized cats and cyborgs. With over 20 unique designs to choose from, they make a perfect gift for the chef in your life. The original shop once sold hair oil for sumo wrestlers and even made regular deliveries to the Ueno Museum. In addition to serving the local community, Takanashi Shoten provides house visits, helping locals learn how to use cleaning products effectively.
Outdoor Serenity and Culture
Shino explains that Yanaka means ‘in the valley’ in kanji. During the Edo era, the Tokugawa shogunate rezoned the Shitamachi district for commoners, and Yanaka became an integral part of this area. While much of Tokyo was devastated by the Great Kanto Earthquake and subsequent fires, Yanaka was less affected, allowing many of its historic buildings to survive. This preservation of the past is evident today, with ongoing akiya (vacant house) projects that have transformed old properties through careful renovations. The atmosphere of Yanaka, with its blend of history and modern life, is a key part of its charm, making it a perfect spot for shopping and strolling through its picturesque streets.
Yanaka Cemetery
There’s no better way to grasp the historical significance of Yanaka than with a stroll through the iconic Yanaka Cemetery. Start at Nippori Station, nestled on a hillside near the cemetery entrance, where expansive views open up and reveal the Yanaka district below. In the distance, the towering Tokyo Skytree is a familiar sight, but the area’s historic wooden shopfronts and narrow streets tell a very different story of Tokyo. English signs throughout the cemetery provide insight into various historic rocks and gravestones, making it a perfect spot for both history buffs and those simply looking to explore. Whether you’re aiming to get more steps in or delve into the rich history of Yanaka Cemetery, there’s something for everyone.
Yuyake Dandan Steps
You may recognize the iconic steps of Yuyake Dandan, which have appeared in various Japanese movies and TV shows. The name, meaning ‘sunset stairs’ in Japanese, is perfectly fitting for this spot, offering a great vantage point to enjoy a snack while watching the sky fill with color above the old-fashioned cityscape. Another testament to the strong community spirit in Yanaka is the fact that the name Yuyake Dandan was chosen through a public contest, where locals submitted their ideas. It’s a peaceful, open space where you can pause and soak in the tranquility of the surroundings.
The Temples
Yanaka is home to more than 70 temples, an impressive number for such a compact area. Many of these temples were relocated from other parts of Tokyo during the Edo period to strengthen the district’s religious and spiritual significance. Whether it’s the cherry blossoms in spring, wisteria in summer or ginkgo trees in autumn, visitors can immerse themselves in the tranquil atmosphere created by these diverse temples scattered throughout the neighborhood. One notable temple is Tennoji, founded in 1274, which houses a large bronze Buddha. Located just next to Nippori Station, it’s easy to visit and serves as a key historical and cultural landmark.
The Cats
No Tokyo neighborhood is complete without its own mascot, and in Yanaka, the cats are an integral part of its charm. Thanks to the many temples in the area, monks have long fed and cared for stray cats, fostering a strong feline presence. While modern animal services have helped reduce the number of strays, the neighborhood’s cat culture remains alive and well. Visitors can spot cat statues on rooftops, tucked away in alleyways and on street corners.
There are also cat-themed cafés, merchandise stores and vibrant cat artworks throughout the area. It would make for a fun challenge to see how many cats you can spot, making Yanaka a whimsical experience for any cat lover.
Getting to Yanaka
Nippori station is serviced by a swath of train lines, so it’s very easy to access regardless of where you are in Tokyo. Set aside a half to full day for this adventure, for both your mind and stomach will not be disappointed. If you’re curious to explore Yanaka’s rich history through its food, consider booking an Ultimate Food Tour. You’ll discover the best local eats and learn about the neighborhood’s fascinating past, all guided by a passionate Tokyo local.
