This article appeared in Tokyo Weekender Vol. 1, 2025.
To read the entire issue, click here.

In Tokyo’s Shinjuku district, where gleaming skyscrapers pierce the clouds, a group of construction workers navigate scaffolding with balletic grace, their distinctive silhouettes marked by their traditional uniform — billowing nikkapokka pants and split-toe tabi boots. Meanwhile, across the world in Paris, similar silhouettes float down haute couture runways. While this may seem like some kind of style synchronicity, it’s far from it — many of today’s top fashion designers draw direct inspiration from these classic workwear staples.

The Heritage of Working Heights

Japanese construction work has been broadly divided into different specialized trades since the Edo period: sakan (plasterers), daiku (carpenters), and tobishoku (scaffolders and high-altitude construction workers). The term “tobishoku” is made of two components: The first part, “tobi,” originates from the pickaroon (tobiguchi) used to lift wood for scaffolding; the second, “shoku,” means “work.” However, the Japanese word for “flying” or “jumping” is also pronounced “tobi,” giving the word another, more literal interpretation. “Flying work” aptly describes the daring acrobatics of these workers as they move effortlessly across steel beams and scaffolding.

Tobishoku garments, particularly the distinctive nikkapokka pants, are thought to have emerged from a fascinating cross-cultural exchange: Dutch knickerbockers meeting Japanese ingenuity. But while their Western cousins were designed for countryside pursuits, nikkapokka pants — also called nikka in colloquial Japanese — were engineered for harsh outdoor environments and the vertigo-inducing demands of high-altitude construction work. With their baggy, wide legs, nikkapokka are easy to move around in; some people even believe that the extra fabric functions like a sail, allowing for a heightened awareness of wind direction. The tapered ankles aren’t merely aesthetic, either — they prevent the trousers from getting caught on equipment.

Despite shaping the skylines of modern Japan, construction work remains an unseen and underappreciated part of everyday life. The towering structures of big metropolises like Tokyo and Osaka stand as testaments to decades of craftsmanship, yet the people who build them often fade into the background. Much like the structures they create, their traditional uniforms — nikkapokka pants paired with tabi boots — are now stepping into the limelight through high fashion’s embrace.

From Scaffolding to Spotlight

At the heart of tobishoku style is Toraichi, the heritage brand that’s been outfitting Japan’s construction workers since 1959. The company’s designs showcase an almost obsessive attention to functional detail: a reinforced waistline stitched using sashiko, a traditional Japanese embroidery method, strategic pleating for movement and fabric choices that balance durability with comfort.

Toraichi’s influence has also extended into streetwear through collaborations with top Japanese fashion brands. In December 2024, it partnered with A Bathing Ape (BAPE) to release a capsule collection inspired by traditional tobishoku garments, putting a streetwear spin on traditional items like the dokajan — a heavy-duty work jacket — and, of course, nikka pants. Similarly, Moussy’s SS24 collection, created in collaboration with Toraichi, reinterprets classic construction apparel with modern, stylish silhouettes for women. It contains items like belted nikka and cropped jackets made with the workwear brand’s durable fabric.

Maison Margiela’s iconic leather tabi boots, while often credited with introducing the split-toe design to high fashion, actually draw from centuries of Japanese practical footwear design, specifically the jika-tabi (which can be literally translated as “tabi that touch the ground”). Margiela’s initial interpretation has spawned countless variations like ballerina flats and Mary-Janes, inspiring a new generation to appreciate this distinctive aesthetic.

Some contemporary Japanese brands, like Moonstar, have embraced the tabi silhouette in their own way as well; Moonstar’s heritage-inspired take, with thin rubber soles and a minimalist black or white canvas upper, is immensely wearable. The Kyoto-based textile brand Sou Sou sells tabi shoes and socks with bright, pop art-esque designs. Since 2009, the brand has collaborated with the Kyoto-based shoemaker Kikkabo on a line of leather tabi — including, alluringly, tabi clogs that can be worn as slip-ons, too.

The Decline of Traditional Workwear

While nikkapokka pants and tabi boots have enjoyed a resurgence in the fashion sphere, their presence on actual construction sites in Japan is fading. In recent years, an increasing number of work sites have banned nikkapokka pants due to safety concerns. The loose, billowy design, despite having its own practical advantages, is believed to increase the risk of workplace accidents like tripping or entanglement with machinery.

Moreover, perceptions of nikkapokka pants have shifted. While some view them as an emblem of craftsmanship and pride, others associate them with unruly behavior. That’s because historically, these baggy pants have also been linked to Japan’s yankii subculture, a rebellious youth movement known for young delinquents sporting flamboyant pompadours and a defiant attitude. Bosozoku — rowdy biker gangs that peaked in the 80s — are also known to wear nikka. Construction companies, aiming to maintain a professional image and minimize complaints from the public, have moved toward streamlined, modernized uniforms that prioritize safety and practicality over tradition.

Tabi boots, on the other hand, remain a staple on construction sites. While standard work boots with enhanced grip and structural support are becoming more common, workwear brands continue to upgrade tabi with safety features like spiked soles for traction and durable uppers designed to withstand sharp objects — ensuring they endure both harsh environments and the test of time.

The Future of Functional Fashion

As sustainability and longevity become increasingly important in fashion, the enduring appeal of tobishoku offers valuable lessons. These garments were designed to last, to serve a purpose and to improve with wear — principles that resonate strongly with contemporary consumers seeking both style and substance.

The influence of tobishoku style extends beyond mere aesthetics. It represents a broader shift in how we view the relationship between work and fashion, between function and form. In an era where authenticity is increasingly valued, the rise of tobishoku style feels less like a trend and more like a recognition of timeless design principles. Whether worn on construction sites or city streets, these garments carry forward a legacy of Japanese craftsmanship and practical innovation — a testament to design that truly stands the test of time.

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