There is something supremely satisfying about an ichigo sando’s appearance. Maybe it’s the three strawberry halves lined up neatly in the same direction, punctuating the snowy white cream with bright red. Maybe it’s the strawberry dessert sandwich’s cottagecore charms; much like a fluffy Victoria sponge cake, ichigo sando are straight out of a picture book in their rustic simplicity.
Equally delicious and aesthetically pleasing, fruit sando became well known worldwide only in the last decade thanks to social media exposure. But did you know that they’ve been a Japanese staple for over a century? Read on to learn about the origins of this unique classic snack, and where to try them in Tokyo.
What Are Fruit Sando?
Challenging the definition of a sandwich since the early 20th century, fruit sando are unlike their typically savory counterparts in that they’re akin to desserts. They’re composed of crustless slices of shokupan (pillowy soft milk bread), seasonal fruit and sweetened cream, and are usually cut into triangles, with the colorful fruit filling on view. You can find them in cafes, bakeries, supermarkets and convenience stores across Japan.
The fruit filling can consist of one kind of fruit — like strawberries in ichigo sando — or a mix of several fruits; a common trio is strawberry, kiwi and orange, which creates a satisfying combination of colors.
Sembikiya in the Taisho Period, courtesy of Sembikiya Fruit Co., Ltd.
The Evolution of Fruit Sando
A Fusion of Tastes
While there’s been some debate surrounding the exact birthplace of the fruit sando, it’s widely accepted that the sandwich emerged during the Taisho era (1912–1926), in conjunction with fruit parlors. These cafes, which serve Western-style fruit desserts and snacks, emerged as one of the many hybrid cultural products of the Meiji period that blended Western and Japanese tastes.
Two of the most famous fruit parlors that remain staple establishments in Tokyo’s dining scene were started by fruit specialty shops Sembikiya (est. 1834) and Shinjuku Takano (est. 1885). The former opened its parlor in 1868, and the latter in 1926. These two shops, along with the fruit parlors of Gion, Kyoto — such as the now-extinct Yaobun — are strong contenders for the title of “fruit sando inventor.”
But why sandwich fruit between bread in the first place? Some have speculated that it was a way to use every piece of fruit before it over-ripened. When asked his thoughts on the theory, Sembikiya’s sixth-generation president, Hiroshi Oshima, acknowledged that it was a possibility.
The Perfect Gift
Whatever their origin, the steady popularity of fruit sando over the following decades can best be attributed to the historical ties between fruit and gift-giving in Japan. Japanese fruit is famously some of the most expensive in the world, its impeccable quality and luxury status dating back to the early 14th century. Back then, fruit was considered a precious gift by samurai and also used as an offering by Buddhists.
In the early 20th century, this cultural background combined with a rapidly developing economy and increasingly complex social relationships, fostering an environment where gift-giving customs skyrocketed. In this milieu, fruit sando took center stage as the ideal offering.
courtesy of sembikiya
The Best Fruit Sando in Tokyo
Sembikiya Nihombashi Flagship Store (Nihonbashi)
Based on the concept of a fruit museum and gallery, the flagship store of classic fruit brand Sembikiya is a must-visit for dessert enthusiasts. Essentially four shops in one, Sembikiya Nihombashi boasts floor space on two floors of the Nihonbashi Mitsui Tower skyscraper: a fruit shop and café on the first floor and a fruit parlor and yoshoku (Western-style) restaurant on the second floor. Head to the fruit parlor — illuminated with Swarovski-encrusted chandeliers — for endlessly Instagrammable seasonal fruit sando and other vibrant fruity treats. The Tokyo Station-adjacent branch at Kitte Marunouchi is another convenient and gorgeous dine-in option.
courtesy of takano fruit parlor
Shinjuku Takano Flagship Store (Shinjuku)
Takano Fruit Parlor, another long-established gem, is on the fifth floor of the brand’s flagship fruit shop in Shinjuku. But back when Takano first began welcoming customers — roughly half a year after Shinjuku Station’s March 1885 opening — you wouldn’t have found fruit front and center; the shop’s main businesses were silkworm cocoon brokerage and secondhand tools, with fruit sales relegated to secondary status. Luckily for fruit enthusiasts, that soon changed, and by the time Takano opened its fruit parlor in the mid-1920s, fruit was king. On the parlor’s first menu? Shinjuku Takano’s iconic fruit sando. Of course, you can also try the shop’s luscious offerings at Takano’s parlor locations across Tokyo and beyond.
courtesy of shibuya nishimura fruit parlor
Shibuya Nishimura Fruit Parlor (Shibuya)
In business since 1910, Shibuya Nishimura Fruit Parlor specializes in parfaits and seasonal fruit sando. Opt for the classic ichigo sando, or choose a premium option, like, for instance, the limited-edition sando featuring Amaou brand strawberries and apple mango. For afternoon tea lovers who want to alternate between sweet and savory flavors, try the mix sando option: three sandwiches (egg, ham and veggies, and a fruit sando) on one plate.
courtesy of fruits and season
Fruits and Season (Ebisu)
Love the idea of fruit sando but not the dairy products used to make them? Then make a beeline for vegan fruit parlor Fruits and Season. Just a short walk from Ebisu Park, Fruits and Season is the perfect place for the dairy-avoidant to try the typically dairy-abundant dessert sandwich. The shop uses soy-based cream and bread, which complement the natural sweetness of seasonal fruits with their refreshing lightness.
courtesy of centre the bakery
Centre The Bakery (Ginza)
Centre The Bakery is a gorgeous bakery often credited with having started Tokyo’s luxury shokupan boom of the early 2020s. If you want to dine indoors, we recommend making reservations, as the wait can be long. However, the shop’s delicious fruit sando are also available for takeout.
courtesy of sandwich house meruhen
Sandwich House Meruhen (Marunouchi)
Branches of Meruhen (often rendered in English as “Marchen”), a sandwich specialty shop, can typically be found at major train stations in Tokyo, with a few farther afield in surrounding prefectures. For over 40 years, Meruhen has been serving yoshoku classics, like fruit sando, egg sando and katsu (cutlet) sando. The shop’s mango sando is particularly famous — and, conveniently, available year-round. As Meruhen’s sando are meant to be eaten on the go, they’re thinner and easier to bite into. Think of them as an elevated version of a konbini fruit sando.
