With 15 Michelin stars to his name, Yannick Alléno is one of the most decorated chefs on the planet. He’s also a huge fan of Japanese cuisine. His first visit to the country was more than 35 years ago when he traveled through Tokyo, Kyoto and Sapporo for three weeks in search of unknown tastes at the age of 20. Captivated by the food, particularly sushi, he became obsessed with returning here, which he has since done on numerous occasions. Just visiting, though, wasn’t enough for the acclaimed chef. He also wanted to launch his own restaurant on these shores, which he finally did in Osaka in October 2024.
The Third Sushi L’Abysse Restaurant
Located up in the sky on the 37th floor of the city’s luxurious Four Seasons hotel, Sushi L’Abysse Osaka Yannick Alléno is a world-class establishment with a meticulously curated menu that seamlessly blends French haute cuisine with the creative skills of acclaimed sushi chef Itaru Yasuda. A meeting of two of the world’s most celebrated culinary cultures, it is Alléno’s third Sushi L’Abysse after the two-Michelin-starred L’Abysse Paris, in the historic Pavillon Ledoyen building in the eastern part of the Champs-Élysées, and L’Abysse Monte-Carlo in Monaco, which opened in July 2024.
At all three restaurants, the concept is the same: It’s about creating a fine-dining omakase experience for guests that combines French and Japanese expertise. At each establishment, though, the menu and the atmosphere are different. Speaking to The Japan Times, Alléno said, “It’s about understanding the terroir of each place.” In Osaka, “a city in Japan renowned for the quality of its gastronomy,” he had to rethink his “methods and creative process by incorporating Japanese techniques and ingredients.”
The Menu
The dinner course is separated into three stages. A sensory-stimulating assortment of appetizers collectively known as Savory Emotion sets the stage with dishes such as layered endive and marinated radicchio with parsley oil, lightly poached oyster with aonori seaweed gelée and sashimi. During our visit, however, the highlight of the first part of the meal was Alléno’s artichoke tofu and smoked pike egg. Combining the French chef’s artistry and inventiveness with traditional Japanese methods of sesame tofu making, it tasted sublime.
After finishing the appetizers, it was time for Yasuda and his team’s Sushi Nigiri Collection, featuring the freshest fish and some secret osu (Japanese vinegar). The Yokosuka-born chef, who continues to refine his craft after nearly three decades in the industry, has garnered quite a reputation over the years. Trying his Edomae sushi, which includes, among other dishes, toro (fatty tuna), hirame (olive flounder), kamasu (barracuda) and hamachi (young yellowtail), it was easy to understand why. Mixed in with the nigiri plates were some surprises, such as the consommé and fire-grilled langoustine with crispy seaweed.
The final part of the meal was the dessert selection titled Amami (Desserts), which included a variety of mouthwatering and innovative dishes such as white miso ice cream with caramelized barley and sudachi citrus gel, crunchy seaweed puff pastry and, best of all, sugar crust and cooked strawberries with fennel pickles for an unexpected twist. The desserts were served alongside a cold-brewed coffee that had been carefully prepared and refined for over five hours using Alléno’s extraction technique. This fastidious craftsmanship results in a smoother beverage with less caffeine, allowing guests to unwind at the end of the meal.
Elegant Yet Unpretentious
Before leaving, I had the opportunity to engage in a short conversation with Alléno, who was making a special appearance. He spoke about his love of Japan and his joy at being able to work with Yasuda and his team. The French chef was also keen to speak about the design of the restaurant, which was overseen by his wife, Laurence Bonnel-Alléno. It features a 6-meter-long tapestry inspired by haiku poetry at the entrance and “The Nest” by Tadashi Kawamata — crafted using chopsticks from natural hinoki (Japanese cypress) — on the ceiling. Across the central wall, meanwhile, are William Coggin’s hand-crafted ceramic corals, a nod to the restaurant’s name, L’Abysse, which means “deep sea” in French.
It’s an elegant place to dine, yet at the same time, it feels unpretentious. The service, as one would expect at this kind of establishment, was immaculate throughout, with brief explanations for each dish. Our sommelier was also very informative about the wine and sake that was served and kept our glasses topped up throughout the evening. Despite this, we decided to complete the night with a drink at Bar Bota next door, where we enjoyed a delightful matcha and yuzu highball while gazing down at the bright lights of Osaka below.