This article appeared in Tokyo Weekender Vol. 1, 2025.
To read the entire issue, click here.
There was once a time when Tsukishima, a quiet Chuo ward district in the Sumida River estuary, didn’t exist. A small artificial island, it was created in the late 1800s using earth dredged from Tokyo Bay during the construction of a shipping channel. Neighboring Tsukuda has undergone quite a few changes as well: Before the development of Tsukishima, it was its own little island inhabited by fishermen.
As these places have grown and developed, a lot has changed. The high-rise apartments that have become synonymous with Tokyo now dot the skyline, but on the ground, much of its early, old-town charm remains woven through the side streets, just waiting for you to find it.
Moon Island Monja
Tsukishima, which translates to “Moon Island,” is often associated with monjayaki. Perhaps best described as okonomiyaki’s less-put-together cousin, monjayaki — also known as monja — is somewhat like a large, savory pancake. Its base is typically made from wheat flour, water and cabbage, on top of which you’ll usually find other vegetables, meat and seafood. What sets monjayaki apart from okonomiyaki is its consistency. With the addition of liquid stock, the monja mixture is runnier than that of okonomiyaki, meaning it doesn’t set like a pancake, instead remaining deliciously gooey on top, with a nice bit of crisp on the bottom.
But what does this have to do with Tsukishima? Running almost the entire length of the neighborhood is the Nishinaka-dori shopping street, more affectionately known as Monja Street. Here you’ll find what may be the most densely populated assortment of monjayaki restaurants in all of Tokyo. And it’s not just a few — every second or third store is filled with the do-it-yourself grill tables synonymous with cooking and eating monja, creating a level of competition that sees many restaurants offering a unique spin on the classic Tokyo dish.
Down by the River
After filling up on monja, explore this part of the city with a walk along the neighboring Sumida River up toward Tsukuda. Heading north along the waterfront, you’ll be treated to a number of viewpoints along the river that offer impressive panoramas of the surrounding skyline. You may notice that the white arch of Chuo-Ohashi Bridge, when viewed from the correct position along the bank of the Sumida River, perfectly frames the iconic Tokyo Skytree that rises in the distance.
Venturing through Tsukuda, you might come across a small white tower with a distinctly historical feel. This is the Ishikawa Island Lighthouse, a faithful recreation of a lighthouse built in 1866 that once stood in the same spot and guided merchant ships to the nearby market. Conveniently, it now sits atop a public restroom.
A few meters away, you’ll find an enormous red torii gate marking the entrance to Tsukuda’s Sumiyoshi Jinja. First established in 1646, the shrine is dedicated to the god of safe sea travel, drawing in fishermen and their families, whose lives depended on the ocean. Today, it’s still visited regularly by locals as a place of prayer.
Heading back toward Tsukishima from Sumiyoshi Jinja, you’ll encounter the scarlet Tsukuda Kobashi Bridge, which, as something of a centerpiece in the area, creates an interesting contrast against the distant skyline of high rises. But perhaps the most intriguing spot tucked away in this part of town is Tsukuda Tendai Jizo-son: a hidden shrine dedicated to Jizo, a Buddhist deity who protects children. Aside from its unusually small size and somewhat secret location in an extremely narrow alley, what makes this shrine most interesting is the enormous tree — said to be around 350 years old — growing straight through the ceiling.
An Accessible Island
Although Tsukishima and Tsukuda are surrounded by water, the area in which they’re located is easy to access. From Tokyo Station, it only takes 10 minutes to reach Tsukishima: Walk to Yurakucho Station and take the Yurakucho Line three stops to Tsukishima Station. From there, exploring the area on foot is both easy and recommended to ensure that you don’t miss any of the Edo-era scenery. Getting in those extra steps is also the perfect excuse for that second serving of monja, should you desire one.
