This article appeared in Tokyo Weekender Vol. 1, 2025.
To read the entire issue, click here.
In Ureshino Onsen, a charming and historic town in Saga Prefecture, a soothing melody drifts through the corridors of Ryokan Oomuraya: the soft crackle of vinyl mingling with the gentle burble of hot springs. At the helm of this cultural symphony stands Kenta Kitagawa, the 15th-generation owner who inherited the Japanese-style inn at age 25.
With this space, Kitagawa has done something extraordinary: He’s transformed one of Japan’s long-standing hot spring inns into a haven for audiophiles and onsen enthusiasts alike. Under his stewardship, the ryokan has evolved into a place where centuries-old hospitality meets modern artistic expression. With a collection of around 3,000 records, state-of-the-art speakers scattered throughout the space and its own library, it now bills itself as an “inn where you can enjoy books and music after a bath.”
Oomuraya’s legacy runs deep. Although its exact founding date is unknown, it has long stood as an important cultural crossroads — it was documented in the writings of author Ota Nanpo in 1805, and it also appears in the travel journals of Ino Tadataka, the renowned cartographer who mapped Japan’s coastline in the early 19th century. In addition, the inn served as a favorite retreat for master calligrapher Gochiku Nakabayashi (1827–1913), whose surviving work still graces the lobby. Poet Mokichi Saito later immortalized this same piece in verse, writing of how Nakabayashi’s brushstrokes captured the essence of his stay.
Immersed in Music
Today, Kitagawa orchestrates a different kind of cultural exchange, one that resonates with both traditional and contemporary sensibilities. Prized calligraphy scrolls share wall space with monochrome portraits of John Lennon and Paul McCartney, and vintage jazz records stand on weathered bookshelves side-by-side with dog-eared Japanese novels.
At the heart of Oomuraya’s musical metamorphosis lies the Yukemuri Lounge, where vintage JBL Olympus speakers and McIntosh amplifiers breathe life into the inn’s expansive record collection. After a soak, guests can sink into plush seating while the sound system’s warm tones fill the air. The space transforms into a record bar as evening falls, becoming Music Bar Oomuraya. Behind the counter, bartender Tae Uchimura, a music school graduate turned mixologist, crafts cocktails with fresh fruit and local ingredients.
Descending to the first basement floor, guests will discover Yuagari Bunko, a library space with custom furnishings and a carefully curated collection of books that tells the story of Ureshino and its community. It has its own high-end audio system, too, creating a serene and sophisticated atmosphere ideal for reading. The space is also sometimes used as a venue for live music performances and other cultural events.
Unique sonic experiences can be found scattered throughout the ryokan. There’s a headphone listening room on the second floor, and on the third floor, tucked behind a curtain, a listening booth offers a rotating selection of CDs. Perhaps most ingeniously, speakers disguised as rocks surround the men’s bath, delivering ambient compositions created exclusively for Oomuraya by Shigeru Kishida of the band Quruli. (The women’s bath shares this calming soundtrack.)
Each guest room tells its own story through design, and each was built with acoustics in mind. The Western-style Botan (peony) room, for instance, has a midcentury modern aesthetic, featuring a curved archway leading to a dome-shaped bedroom. The architectural details — from the expertly crafted earthen walls to the indirect lighting from paper lamps — create a cocoon-like atmosphere perfect for immersing oneself in music. Many of the rooms offer Bluetooth-connected CD players, allowing guests to create their own soundtrack against views of lush greenery outside. The Ayame (iris) room even comes with its own record player.
Soaking in Harmony and Tradition
At its heart a traditional onsen resort, Oomuraya has two public baths and four private ones, which are available by reservation. (Some of the guest rooms also have their own private baths.) The women’s public bath, Uruwashi-no-yu, was newly renovated in November 2024; natural light cascades in through its large windows. The men’s public bath, Tsukikage-no-yu, also recently upgraded, opens out onto the Ureshino River and allows full immersion up to the shoulders.
The waters here are drawn straight from the source at Ureshino Onsen, known as one of the three great beautifying hot springs of Japan. These high-temperature sodium bicarbonate springs are said to leave skin feeling radiant and silky smooth, creating a bathing experience that’s both therapeutic and aesthetically enriching.
Guests who opt to have dinner included with their stay will be treated to kaiseki multicourse meals that showcase the region’s specialties, like Saga wagyu beef and seasonal vegetables. Dessert consists of the hotel’s signature Oomuraya milk pudding, crafted exclusively with ingredients from Saga. This delicacy is also available to take home as a souvenir, as is Ureshino’s famous onsen yudofu — tofu simmered in the same mineral-rich hot spring waters that fill the baths, creating a silky texture.
Through this harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, Ryokan Oomuraya doesn’t just preserve history — it composes it anew for each generation. Under Kitagawa’s thoughtful leadership, this storied inn has evolved into a unique cultural space where the rhythms of contemporary life flow seamlessly into centuries of tradition, creating an experience that resonates long after the last record has finished playing.
To book a stay at Ryokan Oomuraya, visit its website.
