Separated by the Seto Inland Sea, Ehime and Oita are two of Japan’s best-kept secrets. Despite their rich history and natural beauty, these prefectures remain delightfully uncrowded, making them the perfect destinations for a peaceful escape. Famed as the country’s number one citrus-producing region, Ehime is beloved for its popular cycling route across the Setouchi Islands, the Shimanami Kaido. Other notable attractions include Matsuyama Castle and the historic Dogo Onsen.
Oita is cherished for its abundance of hot springs, especially the famed Beppu and Yufuin onsen towns. Many visitors come to Oita not only for the hot springs but also to experience the rich, cultural landscape of the region, which include historic spiritual sites located along the Kunisaki Peninsula.
Today, travelers can reach these two prefectures in one easy trip by catching the Uwajima-Unyu ferries between the ports of Yawatahama and Beppu.
Day Trip to Ehime’s Historic Dogo Onsen
Start your travels in the iconic Dogo Onsen, which was discovered approximately 3,000 years ago and is said to be Japan’s oldest hot spring. According to legend, an egret bathed its injured leg in a pool of onsen water which had sprung from the rocks. Locals saw the egret fly away fully healed and tried taking a bath themselves in the same waters, discovering afterwards that their ailments and fatigue were cured.
Designated a National Important Cultural Property in 1994, Dogo Onsen completed its conservation and repair works in mid-2024. Now, visitors can fully enjoy its facilities, including public baths, resting areas and Yushinden, an exclusive bathing space previously used by the Imperial household.
The Revitalization of Ozu, Castle Town with Nipponia Hotels
Travel 1.5 hours from Dogo Onsen to reach the quiet castle town of Ozu. Once the hub of washi paper, wax, silk and timber production, Ozu flourished and grew wealthy until the country began to modernize, and the castle town slipped into decline. Driven by a sense of urgency to preserve its historical townscape and regional identity, local residents joined forces with both public and private sectors, leading the effort to restore the once-deteriorated castle to its former glory.
In partnership with the local organization Kita Management and Value Management Group, the castle itself, along with several historic buildings and homes, have been painstakingly restored into boutique private accommodations. This decentralized hotel approach has allowed guests to have a more immersive, intimate experience of the town. As they stroll the cobblestone streets from their accommodation to dinner and breakfast served at other restored properties, they pass thriving local businesses like a craft beer brewery, cafés and charming ateliers.
Embrace Peace and Serenity at Ozu’s Beautiful Merchant Villas
Perched above the shores of Ozu’s Hiji River, Garyu Sanso is a breathtaking testament to the intricate craftsmanship of Japan’s sukiya-zukuri architecture. Built upon the vision of the wealthy wax merchant Torajiro Kouchi, its masterpiece is the teahouse Furo-an, a suspended structure atop the cliff face. Guests staying at Ozu Castle itself can enjoy a private breakfast experience here.
A few minutes’ walk away lies Bansenso Villa, the former home of the Matsui family. Brothers Denzaburo and Kunigoro Matsui amassed the family fortune by establishing a trading company and department store in Manila for Japanese expats. Their villa is highly regarded as a treasured piece of modern Japanese architecture, combining both sukiya-zukuri and shoin-zukuri techniques along with international design features rare for that time, such as a balcony and roof tiles embossed with their initials. A tea ceremony experience can be organized at Bansenso, offering picturesque views of the town.
Wandering the Jigoku Meguri (Hell Tour) of Beppu Onsen Town
Renowned for having the highest volume of onsen hot spring waters in all of Japan, Beppu greets visitors with billowing steam steadily rising into the air. Spend your days discovering the Seven Hells of Beppu, or if you have limited time, visit the most picturesque, Umi Jigoku (sea hell) and Oniishibouzu Jigoku (Hell of the Monk’s Head). Try the locals’ favorite, jigoku-mushi, otherwise known as “hell steam cooking,” where you cook fresh vegetables, meat and seafood using the hot spring steam.
There are plenty of accommodations available to choose from, with ANA InterContinental Beppu providing a luxury onsen experience with modern comforts. Guests can relax in spacious rooms with wide balconies overlooking Mount Ogi or Beppu Bay — some fitted with private onsen baths — or simply unwind in the hotel’s large outdoor public onsen and outdoor pool.
Mushroom Foraging With the Shiitake Brothers
Oita Prefecture is the top producer of log-cultivated shiitake mushrooms. Along with the neighboring Usa region, the Kunisaki Peninsula is recognized by UNESCO as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System for its traditional farming culture and diverse ecosystems. In this picturesque rural setting, one can find Kenji and Takafumi Kiyosue — otherwise known as the Shiitake Brothers — carrying on their grandfather’s legacy of shiitake farming. In an industry where the average farmer is 70 years old, they are beacons of hope in keeping the traditions and ways alive for future generations.
Walk with them through their forest of sawtooth oaks, perfect for shiitake cultivation, and learn about this iconic mushroom, integral to Japan’s treasured umami flavors. Harvest your own shiitake and enjoy flavorful homemade shiitake manju (steamed bun) made by Asako, the mother of the Shiitake Brothers. Afterward, head to Kodama Guesthouse to partake in a home-cooked feast using your freshly-picked shiitake mushrooms.
A Restful Stay at Fukinotou by Spiritual Fuki-ji Temple
The tranquil Kunisaki Peninsula is home to numerous temples, shrines and stone statues, reflecting its deep connection to Rokugo Manzan, a local Buddhist culture blending elements of Buddhism, Shintoism and mountain worship. A Designated National Treasure, Fuki-ji Temple is the oldest wooden structure in Kyushu and one of the three most important Amida Buddha temples. To appreciate the serenity of Fuki-ji Temple in its entirety, stay overnight next door at Fukinotou, a small onsen ryokan inn run by the wife of Fuki-ji’s head monk. Cozy and intimate, this charming inn offers tatami rooms, home-cooked seasonal delicacies, hand pulled soba noodles and rejuvenating baths in their public onsen.
