For centuries, the Tateshina highlands, located in the southeastern part of Nagano Prefecture, have been revered for their majesty. Surrounded by the Japanese Alps, they’re rich in natural beauty, with lush forests that change dramatically with the seasons, alpine meadows, volcanic landscapes and picturesque lakes — not to mention an abundance of hot springs.
In the colder months, the highlands are transformed into a winter wonderland, with trees and mountains limned in soft, white snow, attracting visitors from all over the country and the world with their alpine ambience. Nestled in the heart of this scenic locale is Hotel de L’Alpage, a hidden gem with peerless service and world-class cuisine, meticulously designed to evoke a French mansion.
Located on the site of a former noble residence, the hotel effuses European elegance. It’s renowned for its fine French food and wine, and for its remarkable architecture and interior design, but it also serves as a serene haven for taking in the scenic splendor of the area. Each of its rooms looks out onto the mountains, immersing visitors in a pristine snowy vista encircled by sublime cobalt peaks that press against the sky.
In the Heart of the Highlands
Within Japan, Tateshina is a beloved winter retreat: an untouched ivory expanse with numerous soothing onsen and snow-covered trails. It’s less well known to international tourists, however, meaning that you can enjoy world-class snow and breathtaking nature here without the crowds. There are several ski resorts within a 30-to-60-minute drive from Hotel de L’Alpage, making it an ideal home base from which to engage in winter sports and exploration. The hotel is even equipped with a dry room where guests can store their ski wear, skis or boards, and boots when they return from the slopes.
The hotel is also just 30 to 40 minutes by car from Lake Suwa, the largest lake in the Nagano area. The site of Suwa Taisha — one of Japan’s oldest and most important Shinto shrines — it’s long been steeped in deep spiritual and cultural significance. Information on the four main shrines that comprise the entire shrine complex is available at the reception area of the hotel, where staff who are knowledgeable about the local area will be more than happy to help you plan the perfect day trip. In recent years, this area has also become something of a pilgrimage spot for fans of the critically acclaimed anime film Your Name. Director Makoto Shinkai grew up in Nagano and based the film’s central crater lake on Lake Suwa; some of the movie’s most memorable scenes showcase its incredible beauty, tranquility and mystical atmosphere.
Cocooned in Luxury
Despite all that the Tateshina highlands have to offer, some guests may prefer to spend the majority of their stay ensconced in Hotel de L’Alpage, enjoying its varied amenities. This, too, is a wonderful way to enjoy the charms of the region: gazing out from the spacious and tastefully decorated rooms at the mountainous landscape and clear, starry night skies; rising early in the morning to bathe in a large, elegant tub that looks out onto the snow; playing your favorite music from the Bang & Olufsen speakers in each room as you play cards or board games …
Venturing beyond your room, you’ll find a host of cozy and luxurious activities in the hotel. Curl up by the fireplace in the winter garden by the hotel’s entrance, or borrow a book from the sensuous and refined library bar before decompressing with a glass of wine or a hot beverage; the library is stocked with rare books from hotel owner Hirosuke Tobe’s personal collection, many of them focused on art and architecture. There are also a number of day-trip hot spring facilities within walking distance of the hotel should you want to spend the day in warm healing waters drawn from the earth, and the grounds around the hotel are lovely for taking brief walks.
The hotel’s in-house restaurant, Le Jardin, serves sophisticated yet unpretentious French cuisine tailored to the season. Contemplate at the snow-covered grounds while enjoying a course meal of winter delicacies, paired with French wine selected from the hotel’s vast wine cellar, before heading to the adjoining bar area for a delicate digestif or a cigar in the dedicated smoking space.
It’s not difficult to see why the Tateshina highlands are such a well-loved winter retreat, and Hotel de L’Alpage is one of the most exquisite and comfortable places from which to enjoy their beauty. It offers a singular experience: French elegance in the heart of the Japanese countryside, with miles of untouched nature.
To make a reservation, visit the Hotel de L’Alpage website.
