Mountainous and lush, Nagano Prefecture is famous for its natural beauty. The area, also known by its old name Shinshu, thrives agriculturally and provides an incredible variety of vegetables and fruits. Among its culinary traditions is Yoritsuki cuisine: simple, nourishing, locally sourced dishes inspired by the meals served to sake brewers who stayed on-site at the brewery during the harsh winter months. Obuse Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu aims to convey the warmth of this tradition to the contemporary world.
The restaurant has a stylish branch in the Cura Ginza building, keeping its rustic roots alive while offering an upscale dining experience. Its extensive menu highlights fresh ingredients from the mountains, river and sea, representing the natural abundance of Nagano and the nearby Hokuriku region. The restaurant occupies the building’s 13th floor and rooftop terrace, and features gorgeous views of Tokyo Tower and Tokyo Skytree. Read on to discover more about Yoritsuki cuisine’s rich history and vibrant flavors.
Yoritsuki Cuisine: The Treasure of Obuse Town
Nestled in the majestic mountain ranges of Nagano, Obuse town has a long history as a cultural hub. During the Edo period, Obuse flourished as a transportation and economic center, attracting writers and artists like the Ukiyo-e legend Hokusai. The prolific artist maintained a strong friendship with the wealthy merchant and patron of the arts Takai Kozan, who served as the 12th head of Masuichi-Ichimura Sake Brewery.
This 250-year-old brewery, one of Japan’s oldest and most distinguished sake producers, is where Yoritsuki cuisine saw its beginnings. The name stems from yoritsukiba, a place where sake brewers would gather to eat and relax between shifts. Providing much-needed solace during snowy winters, the yoritsukiba was a home away from home for workers. Here, they often savored seared fish, meat, mountain vegetables and copper-pot rice.
A New Yoritsukiba for Modern Diners
Obuse Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu’s main store is housed in the historical brewery, which was established in 1755 and renovated by architect John Morford. The restaurant itself was established 25 years ago, and soon developed a reputation as a “new yoritsukiba,” carrying on the torch of a cherished culinary tradition.
Notably, the British royal family visited the restaurant during the Nagano Olympics in 1998, attracting attention from all over the world. Like its Ginza counterpart, the main store features an extensive selection of sake and wine — including, of course, sake from Masuichi-Ichimura Sake Brewery — in addition to carefully crafted dishes.
Obuse Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu Ginza: Farm-to-City Fare
Obuse Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu Ginza opened its doors in November of 2023, encouraging locals and visitors alike to experience the culinary gifts of Shinshu and Hokuriku. Some key ingredients include Shinshu beef and pork, farm-fresh mushrooms, mountain vegetables and catches of the day from the Sea of Japan. The seafood is sourced from the four prefectures of Hokuriku — Ishikawa, Fukui, Niigata and Toyama — which have long maintained strong ties to Obuse town.
Obuse Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu Ginza’s lunch and dinner menus have no shortage of options across price ranges. Dinner on the 13th floor is a true feast — the menu is full of dishes that blend the deep earthy flavors of Shinshu soil, a traditional stone oven’s smoky notes and a delicate balance of freshness and umami from the river and sea.
Take, for example, the restaurant’s iconic Shinshu taro pork spare ribs, cooked to perfection in the stone oven with black vinegar teriyaki seasoning. Its smoky char pairs beautifully with the chef’s assorted sashimi platter: a rare combination of seasonal catches from Shinsu’s clear river streams and Hokuriku’s fishing ports, including expertly-sliced mackerel, red sea bream, Shinshu salmon and Japanese char. Course options are also available for those seeking a comprehensive overview of Yoritsuki cuisine.
Lunch sets on the 13th floor include seasonal appetizers, a main dish, copper-pot white rice and miso soup — or you can opt for just a main dish if you wish. Entrée options include stone-oven grilled Shinshu beef and Shinshu pork with an apple balsamic sauté. On the rooftop, you can enjoy these components in an elaborately arranged “Kurabu’s Yoritsuki Lunch Bento Box.”
Of course, great sake is essential to an authentic experience of the brewery-originating Yoritsuki cuisine. Like the main store, the Ginza branch serves sake from Masuichi-Ichimura Sake Brewery, as well as a curated selection of handmade sake from Kokuryu Sake Brewery in the Hokuriku region.
Luxury and Comfort for Every Occasion
Kurabu Teppan Barbecue on a Rooftop
The rooftop terrace offers a special teppanyaki dinner that embodies what makes Obuse Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu Ginza uniquely charming: a luxurious, classically Ginza-esque dining atmosphere that retains the cozy intimacy of countryside eateries.
The “Kurabu Teppan” dinner course allows for a more casual barbecue, in which families and friends can comfortably converse while grilling the food themselves. Head Chef Keita Hirao highlights marbled Shinshu beef rib roast and thickly-sliced Shinshu pork loin as the stars of each teppanyaki set, with Shinshu miso chanchanyaki as a delicious companion. Shinshu sausages, sweet potato and cabbage are also available to be grilled.
Iconic Views and Glittering City Lights
As the food sizzles, diners can gaze at a cinematic view of the city from all angles: Tokyo Tower soars up close, and Tokyo Skytree twinkles in the distance. With dark wooden finishes, spacious seats and pastel-hued skies at sunset, the rooftop is a wonderful setting for enjoying a comfortable and memorable meal. The refined 13th floor, on the other hand, is ideal for dates, business dinners and special occasions. Ambient lighting, a sprawling open kitchen and large windows that showcase a concrete jungle create a sleek, elegant atmosphere for city dwellers.
Obuse Yoritsuki Ryori Kurabu Ginza is located within Cura Ginza: a 1-minute walk from Higashi Ginza Station, and a 3-minute walk from Ginza Station. Head to their website for more information, menus and reservations.
